Nature 312

The salmon’s abundant numbers and annual journey have made fishing a key industry in the Pacific Northwest’s economy. From the 1880s to 1950s more than 100 canneries and fishing villages sprang up throughout British Columbia, and in recent years, wild salmon from the province has been exported to 53 different countries. In this aquatic gold rush, Dixon Entrance is the jackpot: Through it flow five species; sockeye, coho, chinook, chum and pink, each returning from the ocean intent on reaching their specific home river in Alaska, British Columbia, Washington or Oregon where they spawn and die.

Scott Smith, chef and co-owner of award-winning contemporary Scottish restaurant Fhior in Edinburgh, agrees. He recently chose North Ronaldsay meat for his inaugural Native & Rare dining experience. The North Ronaldsay breed is so unique," he said. "Although you don't taste the seaweed or coastal herbs in the meat, they give it a unique salinity and a very concentrated flavour. It is like comparing farmed duck to wild."