Exithamster

Indian trains are famous for being crowded, but nothing could have prepared us for our journey from Varanasi to the Maha Kumbh Mela in Prayagraj – the largest religious gathering on Earth, attracting more than 600 million worshippers.

While waiting at Varanasi Junction, train after train rolled past us, packed beyond imagination, with passengers hanging out of open doors. Watching the chaos, we smiled to ourselves, grateful that we had reserved seats on our train.

Then our train arrived.

A 60-litre backpack on the back, 12 kilograms of camera gear on the front, and no choice but to push our way inside. Every compartment was overflowing. Around twenty passengers were squeezed into spaces designed for only a fraction of that number. There was barely room to stand, let alone move.

Eventually, after much negotiation and patience, we reached our reserved seats – the upper berth, directly beneath a spinning fan and conveniently next to a collection of shoes that fellow passengers had stored there.

For six hours we remained in virtually the same position, surrounded by thousands of pilgrims all heading toward Prayagraj. It was uncomfortable, exhausting, fascinating, and unforgettable all at once.

After all, who would want to miss out on an experience like that? Would you?