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二奶仔

在廣東話中，二奶仔原指庶子，即正室以外所生的孩子，但通常被引申來形容社會上或家庭中被冷落、得不到重視的人。 在葡萄酒的世界，原來也有二奶仔的存在，讓筆者說說其中之一的故事。

二十多年前，筆者在購買香檳酒時，偶爾碰到一款產自香檳區名莊 Bollinger，但並非氣泡酒的靜態紅葡萄酒 (still red wine)。筆者當時對那酒一無所知，一問價，竟然貴過該莊的年份香檳酒，出於好奇，便買了兩瓶回家。試了一瓶，發覺丹寧極其硬淨，酸度又高，决定把餘下的一瓶陳年後才再嘗試。其後酒被遺忘在酒窖中，直至去年才再被發現。

正如本文標題，該瓶酒可算是Bollinger香檳莊的「二奶仔」，它的全名是 Bollinger Ay Rouge La Cote aux Infants Coteaux Champagnois 1992。Coteaux Champenois 是AOC的名字，此區所產的酒極為小眾，全球年均銷量僅約7.5萬瓶，與香檳產區每年超過3億瓶的香檳產量相比，簡直微不足道。全球消費者普遍將香檳與氣泡酒聯繫起來，對其靜態葡萄酒知之甚少，再加上價格高昂，因此其受歡迎程度有限，稱之為「二奶仔」毫不為過。

香檳區的靜態葡萄酒在過去150 年間，生產日趨式微，直到近年氣候變暖，使Pinot Noir和Chardonnay能夠更充分地成熟，從而提升了酒的品質才得以復興。一些知名酒莊（例如 Bollinger、Egly-Ouriet 和 Pierre Paillard）現今釀造結構嚴謹、充分展現風土特色的靜態葡萄酒，產量極少，通常僅限於單一葡萄園裝瓶。近年幾個年份（2018-2021）獲得了很高的評價，其清新感、礦物味和陳年潛力都得到了突出體現。因其稀缺性和獨特性，對追求稀有佳釀的葡萄酒愛好者極具吸引力。

那麽，筆者那瓶表現又如何呢？經過長年的藴藏後，筆者既充滿期待又有多少的不安 ------ 對這瓶被遺忘後而復得的酒，期待她表現良好，滿足筆者的好奇心; 不安，因那不竟是已超過三十年的Pinot Noir老酒，是否已變成明日黄花了呢？剛好筆者與一些愛好獵奇的酒友們有一飯聚，順理成章正好把酒與他們分享，交流意見。

先說說該酒的裝潢，其外表竟與香檳無異。如非預先得知，一定以為她是一瓶香檳，可算是先聲奪人。由於是產自單一的4 公頃地塊（La Côte aux Enfants），正好解明了她為何當年比年份香檳還要昂貴。

酒倒出時是淡淡的棕紅色，微覺混濁。中度的霉味冲鼻而來，夾雜一些酸敗奶油和油耗怪味，心中一沉，幾乎準備接受失望。在杯中數分鐘後，起初的霉味陸續散去，展現出花香和醋栗、櫻桃和梅子的味道，香氣逐漸舒展時，心情也隨之放鬆。稍為淺嚐，口感輕盈，單寧柔化、絲般柔滑，一反年青時的剛勁青澀。隨著晚膳的進行，起初的霉味已淡化，果味更加濃郁，且發展出泥土、皮革、乾草藥和香料的多重香氣。整體來說，雖然說不上令人耳目一新，卻仍是愉悦的體驗。

總括而言，Coteaux Champenois 的確是香檳世界的『二奶仔』——不為大眾熟知，卻在歲月的沉澱中展現獨特的風土與韻味。或許她永遠難以成為主角，但正因如此，才更值得鑑賞家細心珍惜。被忽略的角色，有時反而能在時光中釋放最動人的一面。

撰文: 劉信全

照片來源：劉信全

温故知新: www.Openwines.hk

Openwines Flash News -- World’s First Space-Brewed Sake Sets Records

World records have just been set: the most expensive sake ever sold, and the first brewed in space, has reportedly fetched ¥110 million. The content of the 100ml bottle was created aboard the International Space Station, meaning it cannot legally be labeled nihonshu, which by definition must be brewed in Japan. To put the value into perspective, a single 30ml cup would cost about ¥33 million (≈HK$1.6 million).

The project began when Dassai, a renowned sake brewery, envisioned how sake might enrich life once humanity reached the moon. Working with heavy industry manufacturers, they developed a brewing system capable of simulating lunar gravity, one-sixth that of Earth. In 2025, the system, along with sake rice and koji, was transported to the International Space Station. Brewing experiments were conducted by injecting water into the apparatus and stirring the mixture for two weeks. Fermentation progressed, producing a mash—the preliminary stage of sake.

The mash was returned to Earth in March 2026, where analysis revealed an alcohol content of 12%. Finished as sake, the sample was found to be slightly more acidic than Earth-brewed sake, likely due to the temperature conditions inside the space station.

The buyer, identified only as a Japanese national living abroad, reportedly purchased the bottle to support the pioneering challenge of brewing in space. The company has announced that proceeds will be donated to Japan’s space development program.

Japanese sake continues to gain popularity overseas, but whether this enthusiasm will extend to space remains uncertain. For now, the world will be watching closely as sake takes its first steps beyond Earth.



Photo Credit: NHK News

Was invited by an old friend to a tasting entitled The French Wine Affairs. Wasn't sure what wines would be presented other than that Ornellaia was invited as a special guest. It turned out to be a tasting consisting of 8 French wineries all producing outstanding wines, some better known than others.

A friend who went to the tasting with me suffering from jetlag was totally awakened by the high quality of the wines and thank me profusely for inviting him to come along.

The tasting is still on-going at the poolhouse on 11/F. of the Grand Hayatt Hong Kong Hotel till 9 p.m. today. Registration to Vinexpo Asia is required.