Process Physiotherapy

I was delighted to be asked to deliver a couple of workshops at the youth camp at last week.

It’s great to see how far the organisation has come recently. Success has to stand on a supportive structure that has clarity and direction across all the levels of comp climbing. We’re getting there 👏

I had a morning with the athletes looking at pre session prep. They didn’t like my suggestion of calling it ‘pre-formance’ 😆

I’m on a mission to try and re frame warming up from being mindless repetition of the same exercises to prevent injury.

If you focus on what prep you need to do to perform well in that session you will cover the injury prevention.

The first rule of Injury Prevention Club is to not talk about Injury Prevention Club.

I don’t think they got the cultural reference 🤣

Putting time and effort into something you won’t know has benefitted you (how do you know the injuries you missed?) is a big ask.

Individualise your sessions and base it on what you’re about to do. A board session prep should be different than a route prep. That’s what proofs you against injury AND helps you perform better.

Can you do one armers without warming up?

Then why are you spending 10 mins at the start of your session doing 3x30 external rotations with a yellow band? That’s too low level. Get hanging and pulling.

Have objective benchmarks so you can assess what’s appropriate for you today and how that fits with your plan.

I was really taken by how aware they were of themselves and their approaches to training. Compared to a couple of years ago they are way ahead of the game.

We are making big steps forwards.

My next post will be about a session I did with the parents/caregivers on information sharing and athlete welfare.

I managed to spend a bit of time with on the wall and bump into too. I had a great day 😊