GTextus

||𝘽𝙚𝙮𝙤𝙣𝙙 𝙏𝙝𝙧𝙚𝙖𝙙 𝙖𝙣𝙙 𝙒𝙚𝙖𝙫𝙚:𝙏𝙝𝙚 𝙉𝙖𝙣𝙤 𝙍𝙚𝙫𝙤𝙡𝙪𝙩𝙞𝙤𝙣 𝙞𝙣 𝙏𝙚𝙭𝙩𝙞𝙡𝙚 𝙀𝙣𝙜𝙞𝙣𝙚𝙚𝙧𝙞𝙣𝙜||

The textile industry has experienced significant advancements through the application of 𝐍𝐚𝐧𝐨𝐭𝐞𝐜𝐡𝐧𝐨𝐥𝐨𝐠𝐲. Textile engineers and scientists have effectively harnessed the unique properties of nano materials, leading to widespread commercial interest and economic benefits.

Utilizing nano-particles and nano-fibers in clothing and fabrics allows for improved fabric properties without adding significant weight, thickness, or stiffness. For instance, the integration of nano-whiskers into pants fabric creates a lightweight material that repels water and stains.

𝐍𝐚𝐧𝐨𝐭𝐞𝐜𝐡𝐧𝐨𝐥𝐨𝐠𝐲 has played a crucial role in producing specialized fabrics for protective garments used by emergency service workers, including military personnel, firefighters, and medical professionals. Various methods are employed to manufacture nano engineered textiles, such as incorporating synthesized nanoparticles into fibers or textiles and applying nanoparticles as coatings on finished products. Coating techniques like sol-gel, plasma polymerization, and layer-by-layer deposition are used to enhance durability and provide resistance to extreme weather conditions. The composition of nano-coating materials can also alter the surface texture of fabrics.

Nano Fibers, produced through electro-spinning and split spinning processes, possess multifunctional properties, including excellent filtration, high surface area, permeability, small fiber diameter, and thin layers. These fabrics effectively filter out toxic gases, pathogens, and other harmful substances present in the air. The even distribution of nanoparticles within polymer matrices contributes to the toughness and abrasion resistance of fabrics, while also enhancing the tensile strength of composite fibers.

Nano Composites, which consist of a mixture of nanometer-sized substances, enable the production of fabrics with improved electrical, mechanical, optical, and biological properties. This technology facilitates the development of communicating textiles, chromatic textiles, conductive textiles, warming and cooling textiles, textile sensors, and digital fashion. Metal ions and static electricity are utilized to impart sterilizing properties to fabrics, while carbon-based nanoparticles and nano-fibers serve as effective reinforcement materials for composite fibers.

𝐍𝐚𝐧𝐨𝐭𝐞𝐜𝐡𝐧𝐨𝐥𝐨𝐠𝐲 finds diverse applications in textiles. 𝙄𝙣 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙢𝙚𝙙𝙞𝙘𝙖𝙡 𝙛𝙞𝙚𝙡𝙙, fabrics are engineered for drug delivery and wound healing purposes. 𝐒𝐢𝐥𝐯𝐞𝐫 𝐧𝐚𝐧𝐨𝐩𝐚𝐫𝐭𝐢𝐜𝐥𝐞𝐬, known for their anti-microbial properties, are extensively used in burn and scald dressings. 𝘼𝙙𝙙𝙞𝙩𝙞𝙤𝙣𝙖𝙡𝙡𝙮, nano-engineered fabrics can be used to monitor vital signs such as heart rate, body temperature, and breathing rhythm. 𝙄𝙣 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙈𝙞𝙡𝙞𝙩𝙖𝙧𝙮 𝙨𝙚𝙘𝙩𝙤𝙧, nano technology enables the production of lightweight fabrics with high resistance to extreme temperatures, durability, antibacterial activity, improved camouflage, water resistance, and embedded multipurpose nano sensors. These textiles also possess anti-ballistic, flame-retardant, and RF-shielding properties.

In general use, nanotechnology offers various advantages. It allows for the development of wrinkle-resistant cotton fabric without compromising comfort. 𝐅𝐚𝐛𝐫𝐢𝐜𝐬 𝐜𝐨𝐚𝐭𝐞𝐝 𝐰𝐢𝐭𝐡 𝐬𝐢𝐥𝐯𝐞𝐫 𝐧𝐚𝐧𝐨𝐩𝐚𝐫𝐭𝐢𝐜𝐥𝐞𝐬 are used to create odor-free clothing by inhibiting microbial activity. 𝐒𝐢𝐥𝐢𝐜𝐚 𝐧𝐚𝐧𝐨𝐩𝐚𝐫𝐭𝐢𝐜𝐥𝐞𝐬 provide water-resistant coatings when integrated into fabric surfaces. Nanoparticles of zinc oxide or titanium dioxide integrated into fabrics offer protection against ultraviolet (UV) radiation by scattering UV light, reducing the risk of UV-related skin diseases.

In terms of safety, laboratory studies have shown no detectable presence of nanoparticles in perspiration from individuals wearing fabric coated with titanium dioxide nanoparticles. However, concerns exist regarding the potential impact of silver nanoparticles on aquatic life when extensively used in clothing, leading to high concentrations of silver in wastewater treatment plant sludge that could harm aquatic animals.

Several companies are leading the production of Nano fabrics, including -

𝐍𝐚𝐧𝐨 𝐓𝐞𝐱𝐭𝐢𝐥𝐞, which has developed a single-step nano-coating method using zinc oxide to provide permanent antibacterial properties to various fabric types.

𝐆𝐨𝐆𝐨𝐍𝐚𝐧𝐨, produces nano-coating sprays for electronics, textiles, and cars, and also manufactures super hydrophobic and bacteria-resistant carpets, shoes, and clothes.

𝐍𝐚𝐧𝐨-𝐓𝐞𝐱 is a prominent textile company specializing in nanotechnology. Its headquarters are located in Bloomfield Hills, MI, with production, quality, and research and development facilities in Hong Kong and Kings Mountain, NC. The company also has technical support teams based in China, India, and the US. Nano-Tex has recently formed partnerships with other renowned textile companies, including Designtex, Architex, Arc-Com, Carnegie, and Kravet.

By incorporating Nanoparticles or Nano-fibers into clothing and fabric, significant improvements in fabric properties can be achieved without adding excessive weight, thickness, or stiffness. For instance, the integration of nano-whiskers into fabric used for pants creates a lightweight material that is both water-repellent and resistant to stains.

𝙒𝙧𝙞𝙩𝙩𝙚𝙣 𝙗𝙮:
Amatullah Iffat (44th batch)
Dept. Of Textile Machinery Design & Maintenance, BUTEX

𝗙𝗿𝗼𝗺 𝗪𝗮𝘀𝘁𝗲 𝘁𝗼 𝗙𝗮𝘀𝗵𝗶𝗼𝗻
If garment wastes are managed correctly, it has the potential of bringing in $4 billion annually. Though turning garment waste into materials is greatly demanded, doing so could cause conflict between business growth and addressing climate change.
The total volume of annual leftovers from our country’s garment unit is around 400,000. We can create an online market to utilize these wastages. It would be great for business as well as waste management. An Estonia based-based software company named reverse resources is attempting to create such a market. The huge amount of leftovers could be recycled for making new yarns and these can be used for manufacturing garments. A business of about $4 billion could be achieved through utilizing these leftovers.
The percentage of discarded resources in fabric and garment factories is no less than 25 percent. This parameter can go up to 47 percent in some cases, as per the findings of RR. From the findings of RR, we can see that the percentage of discarded resources in fabric and garment factories can reach up to 47 percent with no less than 25 percent. No matter how efficient our active garment units become and ensure optimum use, there is still unavoidable waste at different sections of production such as making, stitching, and dying different garment items.
The managing director of Plummy Fashions Ltd, Fazlul Hoque commented that although it has great business potential within the garment sector of our country, remanufacturing wastes produced from one cycle of production in the next involves serious practical challenges. He also added that the regenerated yarn can capture the market in developed parts of the world which is sure to emerge, with people becoming more sensitive to environmental impacts caused by industrial pollution. He also mentioned that people now are starting to clearly understand the harmful impacts done by Industrial pollution. Therefore as regenerated yarn means less pollution people especially in the developed parts of the world can help capture an emerging market.

Copyright GTextus Hub
Jarjis Amin
Department of Apparel Engineering, 46th Batch
Bangladesh University Of Textiles

𝗚𝗮𝗿𝗺𝗲𝗻𝘁 𝗺𝗮𝗻𝘂𝗳𝗮𝗰𝘁𝘂𝗿𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗣𝗿𝗼𝗰𝗲𝘀𝘀 𝗖𝘂𝘁𝘁𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗦𝗲𝗰𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻
In the apparel industry Cutting is the most sensitive operation for manufacturing garments role as garment production starts with the cutting process. This is termed as fabric cutting which is only applicable for garments manufacturing technology as totally different from general cutting in which exact dimension is not taken into account and in fabric cutting as per the exact dimension of the pattern from a fabric lay are cut out into pattern pieces of garment component. In the garments cutting department, for making quality garments a garment manufacturing unit follows a general process flow to send the right measurement parts in the next process. For this reason, the Cutting Section Standard Operating Procedure (SOP) is developed to provide guidelines for a better understanding of the procedure and to minimize operational error and there can be different forms of SOP from company to company.
𝑻𝒉𝒆 𝒄𝒖𝒕𝒕𝒊𝒏𝒈 𝒑𝒓𝒐𝒄𝒆𝒔𝒔 𝒐𝒇 𝒕𝒉𝒆 𝑭𝒂𝒃𝒓𝒊𝒄 𝑪𝒖𝒕𝒕𝒊𝒏𝒈 𝑫𝒆𝒑𝒂𝒓𝒕𝒎𝒆𝒏𝒕:
1. 𝗣𝗮𝘁𝘁𝗲𝗿𝗻 𝗿𝗲𝗰𝗲𝗶𝘃𝗲𝗱 𝗳𝗿𝗼𝗺 𝗽𝗮𝘁𝘁𝗲𝗿𝗻 𝗱𝗲𝗽𝗮𝗿𝘁𝗺𝗲𝗻𝘁: Cutting Section receives the approved different sizes of patterns for each style of garments from the sample section.

2. 𝗖𝘂𝘁𝘁𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗿𝗮𝘁𝗶𝗼 𝗿𝗲𝗰𝗲𝗶𝘃𝗲𝗱 𝗳𝗿𝗼𝗺 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗺𝗲𝗿𝗰𝗵𝗮𝗻𝗱𝗶𝘀𝗲𝗿: Cutting ratio As per the merchandiser demand for each style garment should be received.

3. 𝗙𝗮𝗯𝗿𝗶𝗰 𝗥𝗲𝗰𝗲𝗶𝘃𝗶𝗻𝗴: After getting a cutting order from the production manager a fabric requirement sheet or requisition slip is generated by the cutting in charge to the fabric store to issue fabrics from the store for each style of garments. The fabric is received in storage when the color, shrinkage, spirality, fabric dia, width, GSM is matched 100%.

4. 𝗙𝗮𝗯𝗿𝗶𝗰 𝗜𝗻𝘀𝗽𝗲𝗰𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻: free fabrics have to be checked on the cutting table to confirm the shade variation. defects are recorded to detect any types of fabric fault inspected by a 4-point system.

5. 𝗙𝗮𝗯𝗿𝗶𝗰 𝗥𝗲𝗹𝗮𝘅𝗮𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻: Knitted fabrics require fabric relaxation is to maintain the dimensional stability of produced garments. Before spreading the fabric on a table they relax the unrolled fabric for the minimum time is twelve (12) hours for fabric relaxation and duration may vary according to the buyer’s recommendation like for 12-24 hours or 24-72 hours. Then for some hours the fabric from the fabric roll is opened and lays on the table for relaxation before cutting. Factories also relax fabric overnight after opening the fabric rolls in the fabric store.

6. 𝗙𝗮𝗯𝗿𝗶𝗰 𝗦𝗽𝗿𝗲𝗮𝗱𝗶𝗻𝗴: Multiple layers of fabric are cut at the same time in mass production. So with the correct lay height and ply tension spreaders lay the fabric on a cutting table as per total marker length. And most importantly A spreading surface needs to be about 10 inches wider than the fabric. The fabric type, spreading equipment, cutting method, cutting equipment, and the firm’s quality standards and requires a flat, smooth surface is the appropriate type for determining the spreading surface.

7. 𝗣𝗹𝗮𝗻𝗻𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗠𝗮𝗸𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗺𝗮𝗿𝗸𝗲𝗿𝘀 𝘁𝗵𝗲𝗻 𝗽𝗹𝗮𝗰𝗶𝗻𝗴: After pattern receiving The cutting master plans marker ways, marker lengths, and the numbers of plies to be laid in each layer and make marker according to the order sheet and pattern size. Now the question is what is a marker? It is a thin paper placed on fabric lay for cutting which carries all the garments components. Planning and Making marker is a process of outlining garment patterns on the lay for cutting garment components. the grainline of pattern and fabric must be marked before marker making and the Marker length must be less than the cutting table length. The marker paper is laid on the top of the layer.
There are two methods of marker making:
• Manual method
• Computerized method
Markers are made manually using paper patterns for marker making by Those factories that don’t have CAD makers. Here marker is produced in two ways:

• The marker is drawn directly on the fabric lay.
• The marker is drawn on marker paper.
After Planning and Making markers which is the process of outlining garment patterns on the lay for cutting garment components the marker is placed on fabric lay Before cutting the marker from CAD and checked very carefully before placement on the top layer of the lay.

8. 𝗖𝘂𝘁𝘁𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗳𝗮𝗯𝗿𝗶𝗰: After making the marker, garment patterns are cut and taken out from the layer by a cutter machine by maintaining a marker. Different technologies are used for cutting fabric layers, such as straight knife cutting, band knife machine cutting, Round knife cutting, and a computer-controlled automatic cutting machine.

9. 𝗦𝗼𝗿𝘁𝗶𝗻𝗴, 𝗯𝘂𝗻𝗱𝗹𝗶𝗻𝗴, 𝗻𝘂𝗺𝗯𝗲𝗿𝗶𝗻𝗴, 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗰𝗵𝗲𝗰𝗸𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗼𝗳 𝗴𝗮𝗿𝗺𝗲𝗻𝘁 𝗽𝗹𝗶𝗲𝘀: layers are sorted size-wise and color-wise after cutting the fabric. Each ply is numbered using stickers and Numbering and bundling separation is done by following the spreading report and identifying each bundle by style, Cutting number, Bundle number, size, Serial number, Shade number, and Parts name. Quality will check every bundle using hard pattern three different positions of the bundle and will check the cutting fabrics accurately by comparing with its marker. The defective panel will be replaced from lay chart wise remnants by following shade and pattern grain lines.

10. 𝗦𝗲𝗻𝗱 𝘁𝗼 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗻𝗲𝘅𝘁 𝗽𝗿𝗼𝗰𝗲𝘀𝘀: Bundles are kept on inventory tables before these are sent to undergo the next process (where required) like printing, Embroidery, sewing, etc. And most important 100% of records must be collected.

𝑳𝒊𝒔𝒕 𝒐𝒇 𝑴𝒂𝒄𝒉𝒊𝒏𝒆𝒔 𝑼𝒔𝒆𝒅 𝒊𝒏 𝑪𝒖𝒕𝒕𝒊𝒏𝒈 𝑹𝒐𝒐𝒎 𝒊𝒏 𝑨𝒑𝒑𝒂𝒓𝒆𝒍 𝑰𝒏𝒅𝒖𝒔𝒕𝒓𝒚:
1. Automatic Fabric Rib and Piping Cutting Machine
2. Computer Controlled Cutting Knives
3. Hand Shears
4. Automatic spreading machine
5. Automatic cutting machine
6. Manual cutting with a straight knife
7. Round knife cutting machine
8. Band knife cutting machine
9. Die Cutting machine
10. Computerized automatic cutting machine
11. Drills and Thread Markers
12. Notchers
13. Laser cutting machine
14. Rib cutting machine

𝑭𝒂𝒄𝒕𝒐𝒓𝒔 𝒂𝒇𝒇𝒆𝒄𝒕𝒊𝒏𝒈 𝒕𝒉𝒆 𝒄𝒖𝒕𝒕𝒊𝒏𝒈 𝒑𝒓𝒐𝒄𝒆𝒔𝒔𝒆𝒔:
1. Nature of fabric (grain line shade, twill, etc.)
2. Thickness of fabric.
3. Design characteristics of the finished garment.
4. Machines and tables used.

𝑫𝒆𝒂𝒍𝒊𝒏𝒈 𝒘𝒊𝒕𝒉 𝑪𝒐𝒎𝒎𝒐𝒏 𝑪𝒖𝒕𝒕𝒊𝒏𝒈 𝑴𝒊𝒔𝒕𝒂𝒌𝒆𝒔:
• Keep a checkpoint for checking garment patterns
• Study the frequency of mistake occurrences.
• Pick the top 3 major mistakes first.
• Find root causes of the mistakes.
• Work on removing the root cause from the process.
• Reduced mistakes in the subsequent orders

The pilot production run is the solution process whether it is a fabric issue or pattern issue that would come out in the pilot run pieces. In this process, there is a loss of some fabric but not the whole fabric. Must be checked to short and bundling activities like size mixing and ply mixing possibilities. For avoiding measurement issues and fit problems in bulk production Pre-production (PP) samples and the samples according to buyer specifications should be checked. Cutting depart should not be allowed to use any other pattern than approved one for a style and season that’s why the master needs to set a standard procedure to seal each final pattern and approve the same.

The most decisive part of the cutting room, as once the cutting process is done, it is very hard to adjust or fix it anymore due to mistakes. So everyone in the cutting department must follow the standard working procedures which is a standard operating procedure (SOP) for cutting room activities and the Solution can be simplified by following the standard procedure of cutting activities. fabric department and sampling and pattern making department also must follow this standard procedure to make it further error-proof. Along with the Q/C, and Q/A reports approved mock sample, and shade continuity of that lot in the cutting department the lot should be moved to the induction department ensuring the bags are properly sealed after passing the audit.

Copyright GTextus Hub
References:
1. textileblog.com
2. garmentsmerchandising.com
3. onlineclothingstudy.com
4. textilestudycentre.com
5. autogarment.com

Sabah Tarana Tarique Neesa
Department of Apparel Engineering, 46th Batch
Bangladesh University Of Textiles

𝐇𝐚𝐩𝐩𝐲 𝐈𝐧𝐭𝐞𝐫𝐧𝐚𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧𝐚𝐥 𝐌𝐞𝐧'𝐬 𝐃𝐚𝐲 -2021

Dear Men, thank you for looking out for us & helping us wherever we face any problems;even if we don’t face any, thank you for supporting us & guarding us. Thanks for all the kindness and concerns towards us. Thanks for filling our surroundings with positivity & protecting us. We, Women, really appreciate your efforts & presence! ❤️