Victor Scott

Found a live, loose 220V wire dangling in a kitchen cabinet of the house we just bought. I secured it in a box for now but I don't mess with 220 very often... Is there anything I should change or do differently?

Not sure if it's 6 or 8 gauge, according to the crappy little card I have, it says 7 gauge (not even sure if that's a thing). I used a 3/4 knock out connector, but that seems kinda small. The breaker was marked as oven, so I'm guessing it was going to an electric oven before one of the previous owners changed to a gas range.

Should I strap the wire to the back wall? The garage is on the other side of the wall, so I may end up pulling through to have a 220 outlet for an electric car, compressor, or welder at some point in the future.

In the meantime, I want to make sure I don't burn the house down or electrocute anyone. Any feedback is appreciated, thank you!

Old phone box
Any reason why I shouldn’t rip this bad boy out?

Outlet stopped working

I am stumped and am afraid i have a difficult task ahead. This outlet had been working fine and just stopped one day. I assumed that the outlet broke somehow, but I have never really heard of that, but I couldn't figure out anything else.

I pulled the outlet today and I have tone on the hot side, so all good there. I then figured that maybe the neutral jumper was not connecting well, but i have good continuity to the wire nut.

There is an outlet inside the house in close proximity to this one and it checks out just fine. Is there a way to trace the neutral back to find the problem without ripping everything out?

Can I remove this fuse box?

I've got a fuse box on the line between my dryer and breaker box. Before I moved in an electrician removed a fuse box and replaced it with a breaker panel, and after having issues with the my dryer he found this fuse box and told me he didn't know it was there. I've already confirmed the breaker is wired to this fuse box and does cut power when turned off. Obviously the fuse box is damaged. Am I correct in assuming I can just remove the fuse box from this line, connect the wires, and run with the just the breaker?

Shed wiring

I got roasted when I posted these photos of rhe wiring I did on my shed. I used MC wire into plastic boxes. I also pulled back the MC in most places to where it wouldn't enter the box. The way I see it, I have 3 options. OPTION 1. I can pull the plastic boxes out and replace them with metal versions, but I dont have enough MC on the terminations to secure to the connectors. OPTION 2. I can rip out all the MC wire and buy a new roll of 12g romex and install it in the plastic boxes. OPTION 3. insulate, drywall and move on as is. Im more likely to die in a car crash than my shed catching fire.

220 help

Purchased our first house a few months ago and my parents visited shortly after to help with a few tasks and see the place. While visiting they showed me a few basic electrical things and helped me wire a 220V outlet for the garage. I have a small woodshop and wanted to run my table saw and jointer on 220. I bought the tools used and they were tested on previous owners circuits, also 20a 220v circuits with the same plug and worked. Now I brought them home and neither work. Both power leads of the plug have power and there’s also power through each lines of the switch all the way to the motor. Ground is connected everywhere.

What is this?

This house is almost 20 years old. It does have a brinks security system installed, which is not in use. I want to remove this plug, but I don’t know if it’s needed for something else in the house. My thought is that it’s tied to some sort of brinks sensor or something. I have no idea where to find information on this. Can anybody identify? Does this look familiar to anyone?

Why juice when light switch is off

In my basement there's an 8ft florescent light and it stopped working the other day. No flickering, no warning, just stopped working. I figure it's probably the bulbs so I'll get some more. But I plug in my tester to make sure the switch is working and the tester lights when I turn it on and goes off when I turn it off. The part I don't understand is the light plug is always showing hot using my other tester. It doesn't matter if I switch between the two plugs in the outlet. I would have thought the cord to the light would show green when the switch is off.

Is this safe?
going thru an old house and every single plug has this going on. what am I looking at?

Why did my outlet burn out like this? Bad outlet? Bad vacuum?

I wasn’t home when this happened, the cleaner had a vacuum plugged in here. I found it like this when I got home and had to check my ring cam to see what happened: she was vacuuming, vacuum suddenly lost power, she came out to check the plug and it must have been smoking since it set the smoke alarm off and she unplugged the vacuum.

She then proceeded to plug the vacuum in elsewhere and finished.

Will replacing the outlet be enough or is there likely an issue with the wiring?