Building Constant and Maintenance

Were into Building construction, layer of Tile, paint of building and also Sound Engr, if you want to buy land and also if u want developed your land, let build it for you

HOW TO CALCULATE NUMBERS OF BLOCKS FROM A BUILDING PLAN.
Most asked question from a would be house owner is always how many blocks do I need to get my building completed.
Hence this topic is written with illustrations to make it easy for you to do
the calculations yourself from the plan your architect gave you.
The plan above is for a 2 bedroom bungallow, so we are going to start from the basics having in mind these factors-
i)The lenght of a block is 0.45m or 450mm or 18″
ii)The width of thickness varies -150mm or 6″ and 225mm or 9″ which are most common.
ii)Taking for a general or average purpose, the blocks laid from foundation to dpc(german or oversite concrete) is 4 courses(coaches/levels). From dpc to the base of window another 4courses(coaches),from base of window to top of window another 5 courses(coaches), then from top of window to base of roof
another 3 coaches, neglecting the lintel or concrete on top of window.
Now with these parameters let calculate the plan above which has a wall of 150mm or 6″ all through.
Add the length and breadth of the block wall for external and internal

Therefore (A)9,400mm+9,600mm(B)+9400(C)+9600(D) =38,000mm or 38m
Now add the internal walls too (Follow the grid lines and check the corresponding
dimensions on plan remember 150mm is the
block width) (Grid 7)150+3600+150+
150+3600+150=7,800mm or 7.8m (Grid 6)1350+150+2250+150+825+675+15
0=5,550mm or 5.55m (Grid 1b)800+2400+1300+900+100=5,500mm or 5.5m (Grid 2)2600+900+100+
150+100+900+500+150=5,400mm or 5.4m (Grid 3)1800+150+650+
900+250+900+1450=6,100mm or 6.1m (Grid 3b Kitchen)900+50+
1200+50+150=2,350 or 2.35m (Grid 7b toilet)1800 or 1.8m
Total internal walls=34,500mm or 34.5m
Therefore Total walls=38,000mm +34,500mm=72,500mm or 72.5m
Now for the first 4 coaches to dpc level the wall will run right through, i.e the spaces for doors or windows are not left out (n/b- blocks are used in relatively strong and stable soil not waterlogged area that requires concrete instead).
Divide the sum by 450mm to know the numbers needed for one level/layer/
coach of blocks 72,500/450=161 blocks.
From dpc level to roof lets take the numbers of coaches to be 4+5+3=12(courses) coaches then multiply the numbers of blocks for each coach above by 12
161 x 12=1932 blocks
Don’t forget we have windows and doors spaces which we need to remove,for each window of 1200mm take numbers of the block to be 14 (i.e 1200/230=5.2 and
1200/450=2.6 ,5.3 x2.6=14 approx..
Now count the numbers of 1200mm windows and multiply by 14
Total numbers of 1200mm windows as counted on plan is 12 (note 2400mm window was taken as two of 1200mm window)
i.e 11 x 14 =154 blocks + 7 blocks for 600mm window for toilet. Total=161 blocks
Now calculate for doors,Numbers of blocks for a door of 900mm is 18.
height of a door(2100/225=9)+width of a door (900mm/450mm=2). so 9 x2 =18 blocks for each door.
Multiply 18 by numbers of doors=18 x8=144 blocks Add 144+161=305 blocks,then remove from total blocks of 644 (for dpc) + 1932
Total numbers of blocks reqd=2,271 blocks
For a quick calculation, having the entire length to be 72,500mm. Take for a bungallow total length from foundation to roof to be 1,200mm +3000mm=4200mm
Then calculate the surface area which is 72,500 x 4200 and convert to meters 72.5m x 4.2m=304.5m2(m2-metre square)
Remove surface areas of windows and doors
For window, height is 1.2m and total is 11
i.e 1.2m x 1.2m x 11=15.84m2 +0.6 x0.6(toilet window) =16.2m2.
For doors, height is 2.1m while width is 0.9m i.e 0.9 x 2.1 x 8(nos of doors)=15.12
Total area for doors and windows=16.2m2
+15.12m2=31.32m2 Remove 31.32m2 from 304.5m2=273.18m2
Now divide this by surface area of a block which is 0.225 x 0.45=0.10125
The blocks reqd caculated by this method is 273.18m2/0.10125=2,698 blocks
Note a difference of about 400 blocks from the two calculations. Of course you can’t get exactly the numbers you need but the first method is close to it. And calculations are not 100% true because of these factors
1-The mortar space was not considered
2-Blocks that will be wasted due to breakages e.t.c

of laminate flooring
is a highly detailed photographic image
that is overlaid with transparent, extremely
durable plastic laminate (similar to the
material used for counter-tops). It isn’t
until you actually touch the grout joints or
scan for natural imperfections that you
realize the flooring is not what it appears
to be..
How Laminate Flooring Is Made
The base material is a melamine/
aluminum oxide/fiberboard composite
product, often medium-density
fiberboard (MDF). A backing layer is
then added to prevent moisture seepage,
which can damage the planks.
FLOORING
ACCESSORIES
Once you have purchased your wooden
floor, you may need some accessories
that are designed to finish the overall
look of the floor.
When you are installing laminate floors,
you will need to use a floor underlay to
apply your flooring to the subfloor. Some
of these underlays are damp proof or
sound proof to suit specific requirements.
After your underlay, you may need to
look for matching profiles to hide away
unsightly edges or pipe holes.
For laminate profiles, there are skirtings ,
doorends, concaveline, t-
moulding, Stairnose moldings and door
bars . Your choice of adhesive is also an
important part of your installation tools.
From floor installation kits , sealants, and
pullbars, there are many bargain
flooring accessories on offer in terms of
installing your flooring. Also, to help
maintain your floor, it is also advisable
to look at the relevant flooring
maintenance kits. If you do your part in
taking care of your flooring, it can last
well beyond its expected lifespan.
Laminate Flooring Installation
Laminate flooring requires a reasonably
flat, smooth base such as vinyl, plywood,
tile, or hardwood flooring (but not
carpeting); a flat, smooth concrete slab is
acceptable, but it’s wise to apply a v***r
barrier before putting laminate on a
slab. Each manufacturer of laminate
flooring products offers complete
installation instructions.
How to Install
Follow the directions implicitly if you do
the installation yourself :
Before installing the material, allow it to
sit in the room for two or three days to
acclimate to the room’s humidity and
temperature. Cut the pieces using a
power saw.Be advised that strong light
glancing across the surface—such as
from a large window or patio door—may
illuminate seams; to minimize the
visibility of seams between plank-style
flooring, run the material perpendicular
to such doors or windows.If you are
installing a laminate floor in a
bathroom, you must be particularly
careful to join and seal the edges of the
planks according to the manufacturer’s
directions to prevent moisture from
seeping between or below the planks.
Also check the product’s warranty to be
sure it covers this type of
installation.Over time, ground-in dirt
will cause small scratches, so it pays to
keep laminate floors clean. Picking up
dust or loose dirt is easily done with a
dust mop or vacuum; for more in-depth
cleaning, use a damp mop or damp
towel, but don’t saturate or allow water
to stand on the floor. Do not use
abrasives or scouring powder, polishes,
or waxes.Touch-up sticks are available
from some manufacturers for deep
scratches. Following installation, it pays
to keep a few extra pieces in case
damaged areas need replacement